Porsche 914

Porsche 914

Porsche 914 questions and answers

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Q: I have 1975 Porsche 914 2.0L that after 2 minutes of idleing the motor dies.?
I have to wait 10 minutes for it to restart. Appears like ssomething needs to cool off. Any ideas??

A: The motor hasnt died It is the ignition luckily.You start the cars engine with a electric motor(tahts why it makes aweird noise when it staRTS then petrol and air enter the cylindes but doesnt ingnite or explode cauz the lack of electytricity igniting the mix. this is a common problem but can be fixed by a mechanic.

Q: looking for general info about 1972 914 Porsche?
how are they ranked to Porsche enthusiasts, common problems etc.

A: It was built by and sold under the VW label in Germany. They called it a Porsche in America, hoping we wouldn't know any better. That should give you a good idea about how they rank to Porsche enthusiasts. The 914-6, on the other hand, was built by Porsche and is a desirable car, but they are rare. That said, I don't hate the car. Heck, I've even owned VWs. Just be very careful in buying one. Rust was a terrible problem with this model. The engine is very hard to access for even the most routine service. The rear deck lid hinge/spring usually breaks and is a bear to fix. The list goes on and on. Spend a lot of time educating yourself about this model and its problems before you spend money on one. If you're still interested after learning about it, then get one. It's a fun little car, and handles quite well. Just don't fool yourself into thinking you're getting a real Porsche.

Q: How much can I sell my Porsche for?
I have a 1973 Porsche 914 sitting in the garage. However the car has NOT been turned on since roughly 1986, so about 22 years. How much should I except to get for the car if I sold it?

A: No matter what the circumstances has been, used cars only bring what they are worth and the only way to find that out is to find a dealer that deals in the older cars and have him look up your car, It will have a Value for generally 3 conditions. Excellent shape, Fair condition and poor condition. They will also consider the miles, low miles adds value where as high miles brings the value back down. Some accessories also ad value. Example lets say your car is perfect and books for 1000.00 dollars, It has low miles so the book adds 300.00 for the low miles. Then lets say it has air conditioning that in some cases will add 500.00 dollars. So now your up to 1800,00 , oops I just noticed it is a standard shift transmission some cars loose value if they are not automatics, So you now loose 200.00 of the 1800.00 because it has a manual shif transmission. Any how tthat'sthe way it works, but with some exceptions and that is popularity. If for example you have a rally sought after year and model Porsche due to some sort of body style that the younger or older generations can`t live with out then you can generally get well over blue book value providing again it is in decent shape. Where most people go wrong is thinking they are sitting on a gold mine just because the car is 25, 30 or 40 years old and its some fantastic antique that the collector car world is searching high and low for and they put some crazy rediculous price on it. What generally happens then is the car winds up sitting and further detoriating un til it has lost half the value it had when you first decided to sell it. I restore old cars and am currently restoring a 1969 Dodge Superbee. I already have 20 k in the car over and above the price of the car, and I don``t even have it back together yet. In fact it is a year and another 20k away from completion. So peoplle like me are serious buyers and serious rejectors when we meet up with a person that over prices his car. If your car has small spots of rust showing u down in the lower quarter panels, rockers, cowl corners , floor pans or trunk floor then it is going to cost a lot of money to properly restore that car and a collector \rebuilder is not going to pour a ton of purchase price into it. Instead we will go looking for something with less rust and a lower price, as what really counts is the bottom line when we in turn re-sell the car after it is restored. I`m not going to tie up 45k into something that is only going to bring back46k. So the one thing you want to do is research research and research. Take a note pad and pen , wlk around the car and list the honest condition of your car carefully noting all the defects. Also make a list of the pluses. Custom wheels, new paint, chrome parts on your engine, etc etc. Then spend a couple hours on the internet comparing your car to other cars of the exact same year and model. Not some other model but the ones exactly like yours. While you are doing this you want to also be looking for things the other sellers may be listing that you may have over looed on your car that could increse the value of yours. It would also be nice if you run a title search checking to see if your car was known to have ever been totaled or considered totaled by an insurance company. This isn`t expensive but it goes a long way with a potential buyer. Education about your car will be the trick to getting a fair price out of it. But consider this, unless you have something really desireable this is not the economy to be selling your car in. No matter who comes to look at it is going to think you are hurting for money and they may play hard ball with you. Look out for the people that approach you and give the car a inspection and automaticallystart in about what all is wrong with it in their opinion and offer you some crazy low price. Be nice and tell them you will consider their offer, but you want to have some one check out their aledged problems just for your own knowledge. And it sure wouldn`t hurt for you to ask some one that has been a body man for about 30 years to come and give you their honest opinion as to the condition and have them point out what all they find that may be problem areas. I know I have put forth a lot of info, but I only did this bechase you do have a car that some models are very desirable with collectors and restorers. I woud hate for some one to take advantage of you and steal your Porsche. It happens every day and especially when a seller runs into a motivated seller needing cash fast. I have bought most of my cars when some one has suddenly needed cash and bails out for a song. I always look at it like this, some one is going to get thier car so it might as well be me. Good luck and take your time

Q: How much is my Porsche worth?
It is a 1973 Porsche 914. It is 1.7 L. It has 77,000 miles on it. Two previous owners. New paint and rims, both Porsche acceptable. Good condition.

A: Well, it won't fetch masses, but you could get about £20k max. Depends on a lot of stuff. If there is a porche owners club or similar near you go to them for a price.

Q: I have a 1973 914 (4) 1.8l fule injected porsche can i put a NOS kit on it or would it be bad ?
Porsche 914

A: Truthfully all we really have is a VW. I have one too . They were built by Volkswagen and have VW motors in them (except the 6 cyl.) Anyway If it was good for the car ,they would install it at the factory ,or dealership. Which they don't . Because the nitrous oxide makes the engine run very HOT (not good for air cooled vehicles at all) All in all you will burn the valves for sure and that is very costly to repair. ANSWER: Not a good idea to run a NOS system on that car.

Q: What is a pretty good but cheap turbo charger and intercooler?
They will be going on a porsche 914 1.7l

A: 1)when it comes to forced induction (supercharging or turbocharging) there is no such thing as cheap 2)for your car probably there is no is bolt on installation - therefore you will have to purchase a "universal" fit turbine, plus intercooler and have it installed with all piping specially fabricated. i estimate the cost of the parts in the range of $2000, and installation costs approx $4000. 3)forced induction even at low levels of boost generates a lot of heat/engine stress and accordingly your engine may require further upgrades to handle the extra power (built out bottom end and performance heads). if you want to go further go to website for andy's auto sport. they carry a range of universal turbos. cheers (04 cobra, supercharged-whipple blower @ 15lbs )

Q: How can you tell the difference between a 2.0 engine and a 1.7?
I need to know how to tell the difference physically.....I got this car and Im not sure how to tell the difference. The owner's manual says 2.0 but someone told me it might be a 1.7......its a 1972 porsche 914.

A: Yes, if its the original motor it has to be a 1.7 or 2.0 as the 1.8 1st came out in "74." This link discusses the diff between the 1.8 and 2.0. If this doesn't answer it for you, ask the forum. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=392806

Q: who can i get to tow away car parts?
914 porsche with engine out of car, car in pieces. Who can tow it away? Even if for a price.

A: I am looking for one of those. P.M. me please A.S.A.P. Really, Truly I am looking for another 914. I have totaled mine and need a good body to put all my parts in. I cannot e-mail you cause it is not allowed. Please contact me thanks Alex

Q: My first Porsche?
I am not quite yet in the financial position to buy a porsche but will be soon. I really cannot afford a Porsche more than $7000, so i have been looking at 912's as they have the 911 shape I have to come to love (as well as no post-73 impact bumpers). I could put up with a 914, but am not sure about any of the front engined coupes. A well sorted 3.2 Carrera would be perfect, but what kind of condition would it be in for $7000? Right now I am planning but any advice would be great!

A: You can't buy a decent 6-cylinder 911 for $7000 so forget that. You might find a decent 912 and that would be an okay first Porsche. However, they are rather slow, so don't expect it to feel exciting to drive. It is powered by the little Porsche 356 motor and it's not an easy engine to get much more power out of. Also, keep in mind that a rebuild of a 912 motor will cost almost as much as a 911 motor, and more than the value of the entire car. So you'd better buy a 912 will a very well tested engine or you're screwed. Nothing wrong with a 914. They aren't really Porsches, as they have a VW engine (from the 411 model, the pancake engine). They aren't fast either, but they handle really well and have a targa top system that is very clever. The best 914 is the 2.0 model and you can find decent ones for $7000. REMEMBER--buy the BEST Porsche you can afford. DO NOT buy a "fixer-upper". It's just a money pit for you at this price level. Personally I'd suggest you save up your money and buy a 1988-1989 911 Carrera for around $16,000. They are good cars, fast, pretty and very civilized. Older Porsches are quite primitive in terms of heat and ventilation. If I were you, I'd go with the 914 2.0.

Q: How do you stop the oil leak on my 1972 VW bus?
I blew the motor in my 72 bus, a 1700cc. I had a 1972 Porsche 914 with a 74 Porsche 914 2.0 motor rebuilt up to a 2.8 in it we took that motor and put it in my 1972 VW Bus. Okay, everything worked out good, until we found that the Flywheel from the Porsche was just a little too big for the bus bell-housing. So, we switched to the buses flywheel... but the pilot bearing was trashed, we drove across town to get a new one for the bus flywheel, and got home and found it was the one for the Porsche flywheel not the bus. My boyfriend/mechanic took the bus flywheel and had the hole for the pilot bearing drilled out to fit the Porsche pilot bearing. I wasn't too keen on the idea, but I wasn't doing the work. SO, with that said... what's done is done. Now the flywheel seal has been leaking. we reused the seal from the Porsche. It leaks, then it stops for a few days, then it starts leaking again. I went and bought both flywheel seals: one for a Porsche 914 2.0 motor and one for a 72 bus 1700 cc motor. The difference in size is only .002 of an inch or something. the VW one being the bigger one. Anybody have any suggestions about how to stop the leaking? Other than the leak, my old bus runs like a million bucks. thanks for your time.

A: This sounds like the rear seal spring has been kicked out of it's groove inside the seal. Very easy to do on the orange seal. The good news is it will go back in with a small screw driver. The bad news is you gotta take the flywheel off to do it. Your sure it is engine oil? all that "In and Out" can sometimes damage an old trans seal. I had a 75 bus that didn't leak oil! So there was at least one out there that was good. It is very important to cure an oil leak near the clutch. The leaking oil will "mist" its way into the friction disc and glaze it over -now that you have 1/3 more hp there that clutch is at it's max holding all ready, any oil on it will leave you stranded. The problem with the size your working with is one seal will be .002 to tight, and the other is correct, and your using the -tight one? good- or the loose one ? will leak.- OR are you talking about the bore the seal sits in? There is one more thing--Is there an "O" ring in the flywheel? Did you put sealer on the flywheel where it mates to the crankshaft? Did it have a tin "gasket" between the flywheel and the crankshaft? I have-- in a fit of desperation-- fit an old 40 hp trans to the 1500 fly wheel by bolting them together while the engine was running. The flywheel teeth acted like a great milling machine and cut clearances as it went. Had to watch the temp as the old trans was a pure magnesium case and should it catch fire, all bets were off. The pilot bearing in the crankshaft? is replaced with the one for Porsche as that is what is in there? Not knowing that motor, I am presuming the trans input shaft was a good fit to the Porsche pilot bearing, and the hole that was opened up was just the access hole to the crankshaft so you could change the bearing- or does the pilot bearing actually seat in the flywheel? I would need to research that, or you can edit. I think I have the picture- hope some of the places to look will help- I believe you can get it to dry up. Good luck.

Q: The value of this 1974 Yamaha TX500?
I'm looking to find out the value of this ( http://homepage.mac.com/bradranola/PhotoAlbum1.html ) 1974 yahaha TX500 because the guy wants to trade for my 1975 914 porsche, not running and needs fixing. let me know if you'd trade or a motorcycle bluebook site with this motorcycle on it, or how much you'd pay for the bike.

A: doubtful that they will be the same value!! maybe if both are good runners but otherwise im not sure its a good deal

Q: Has anyone been thinking about building an electric car (home-made) for themselvees any time soon?
I just read of how a man in Los Angelese has converted an old Porsche 914 to an electric car with a 60 mile range for $18,000 (24 lead acid batteries). ( http://www.latimes.com/classified/automotive/highway1/la-hy-wheels2-2008jul02,0,3144785.story ) I thought to myself that's a good idea. Probably better to buy an electric scooter though, if you don't need to take the freeway often as is the case in L.A. I'm now doing some investigation into that idea and I hope to begin building my own electic car also. Does anyone else have similar plans? I have heard about how its actually better to convet old small pickup trucks (Ford/Toyota/GM) to electric pickups because the box can hold more batteries and the springs are easily upgraded to hold the extra tonnage. Lead acid batts are heavy but they're cheap, so that's why Lithium Ions are shunned for now. My thoughts are to buy an older car, as small and light as possible, and then convet it with as few batteries as possible.

A: Na this end .. .. .. The cost would make a home mortgage look small in comparison .. . .. Just to have the parts would be a break the bank effect .. .. .. And then the trial and error all cost big time and the family effect on it would be a cost no one could account for .. .. .. So if you are into it for to be the winner of the competition don't even try unless you have a finical backer .. . .. To do it as a build your own kite kind of attack go for it only keep it model car size 1/32 size kind of thinking .. .. ..

Q: im looking for information about puttin a different engine in a VW rabbit...?
My family owns a 74 fuel injected 914 posche that is in horrible condition but the engine still turns over and may still run and i wanted to put it in a Rabbit, ive seen Rabbits with small blocks and other porsche engines but cant find any sources... that car flys with that engine, its faster than my 84 Porsche, andthe rabbit is lighter than the 914...

A: The 914 engine in the rabbit wont be a good choice. If you want some high revving good times a 2.0l 16v with a 1.8l head will give you much more fun than the 914 engine and everything bolts in. Also the 2.0l 8v engine from the MK3 golfs and jettas will bolt in. ECU will need to be changed, but all that can be fixed with a good donor car. Rabbits are fantastic platforms (1984 and older) for some good fun.

Q: The 1976 912?
Was this powered by a V.W. Type 4 engine like the 914? Was Porsche in dire financial straights in the mid to late 70's? Or were low end outsourced power plant models like the 914-4 and 924 for the North American market simply intended to compete with the Japanese for market share in the "cheap and sporty" Class?

A: The 912E did use the same 2.0L VW Type 4 that was featured in the final version of the 914. Porsche was a fairly healthy company in the 1970s... like most automakers, gas shortages had hurt sales, but Porsche faired quite well all considered (helped that many of their cars did quite well in terms of fuel economy). Yet, competing with the Japanese wasn't really a major consideration at this point either. The why's involved here involve a few joint ventures... first among these was the 914. The 914 was designed to use many VW parts as it was sold everywhere except North America as a VW-Porsche. Porsche additionally sold an all Porsche version with a flat 6 engine, the 914-6 (a few prototypes and production examples of the 916 and 914-8 were also produced). Using VW parts for the 914 allowed Porsche to control costs on an entry level model, while VW was able to get Porsche's sports car name and design. But the 914 was never a huge success, and it was soon discontinued. The 912 was put back into production as the 912E (with the Type 4 engine). The car was a stop gap to fill a production year with an entry level model... 1977 would bring the 924. The 924 was originally planned to be an Audi sports car... thus it was designed with many Audi parts, including the engine. However, after the project was done, Audi decided they did not want to produce the car. Porsche, needing a replacement for the retiring 914 decided the car they designed for Audi would be an excellent replacement. With the 912E as a stop gap while they prepared for production, the new entry level car would soon be the 924. The 924 would evolve to the 931, 944, 951, and finally the 968. As it evolved, it would make more and more use of all Porsche parts, until, with the 924S and 944, it was an all Porsche car. Now, if you go forward to the late 1990s... at that time Porsche was in deep financial trouble, which is the reason why the 986 Boxster and 996 Carrera shared so many parts! And now that things have been good since, we've seen fewer and fewer shared parts between the two lines. But this was not the case with the earlier cars.